Backpacking Scotland’s West Highland Way
One Hundred Miles, One Hundred Stories
Over the Easter holiday, Morton and Fei joined six fellow outdoor enthusiasts to walk the West Highland Way—96 miles (approximately 153 kilometres) through the heart of the Scottish Highlands—before finishing the adventure with an ascent of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the United Kingdom.
Beginning in Milngavie, just outside Glasgow, the eight-person team carried everything they needed through forests, open moorland, lochs and cloud-covered mountains, eventually reaching the historic town of Fort William.
Over eight unforgettable days, they experienced driving rain, fierce winds, blazing sunshine, exhaustion and moments when continuing felt almost impossible. But there were also peaceful wild camps, shared drinks, late-night conversations, brilliant stars and some of the most dramatic scenery in Britain.
This West Highland Way backpacking trip report tells the story of their journey—one hundred miles, and one hundred stories shared along the way.
Day 1: Milngavie to Cashel Campsite
Distance: approximately 37 km
The West Highland Way begins in Milngavie, where the trail gradually leaves the outskirts of Glasgow and enters a landscape of woodland, farmland and quiet villages.
On paper, this should have been one of the easier sections. Instead, six continuous hours of heavy rain transformed the day into an early test of endurance. By the time the group reached Conic Hill, powerful winds were sweeping across the exposed hillside above Loch Lomond.
The views offered the first real glimpse of the journey ahead, but the combination of driving rain, strong winds and heavy backpacks made the second half of the day far more demanding than expected.
It was a challenging introduction to the West Highland Way—and a reminder that conditions in Scotland can change everything.
Day 2: Cashel Campsite to Beinglas Campsite
Distance: approximately 31 km
The second day followed the eastern shore of Loch Lomond through dense woodland and over rugged, rocky paths.
Loch Lomond is magnificent, but this section of the trail demands constant concentration. Twisting roots, uneven rocks and repeated climbs make progress much slower than the distance might suggest—especially when carrying a fully loaded backpack.
A delayed start meant that the group remained on the trail long after sunset. Tired but determined, they continued through the darkness and finally arrived at Beinglas Campsite at around one o’clock in the morning.
Completing the entire Loch Lomond section in a single day was one of the first major physical tests of the trip.
Day 3: Beinglas to Auch Lodge
Distance: approximately 25 km
Leaving Loch Lomond behind, the route continued north alongside streams and rivers, with the snow-covered summit of Ben More visible in the distance.
For the first time, the group felt that they were entering the true heart of the Highlands. The landscape became broader and more remote, and the mountains began to dominate the horizon.
After reaching Tyndrum, they stopped to rest, eat and replenish their supplies. Although it would have been easy to end the day there, they continued north towards Auch Lodge.
That evening, they set up camp beside a stream—surrounded by open country, flowing water and the silence of the Highlands.
Day 4: Auch Lodge to Glencoe Mountain Resort
Distance: approximately 25 km
Day four led through rolling valleys and across the vast, exposed landscape of Rannoch Moor.
As the trail climbed, the scenery changed again. The dramatic mountains of Glencoe gradually appeared ahead, rising above an otherwise empty wilderness. It was one of those landscapes that seemed to grow larger and more impressive with every step.
The group spent the night at Glencoe Mountain Resort, where their accommodation was surrounded by mountains. After several long days on the trail, they rented a small cabin and gathered inside for a warm meal, drinks and a well-earned evening together.
It was a welcome moment of comfort in the middle of the journey.
Day 5: Glencoe to Dorie Ban
Distance: approximately 30 km
Day five brought the greatest amount of climbing and the highest physical demands of the entire West Highland Way. It was also, for many in the group, the most spectacular section of the route.
The day began with the ascent of the Devil’s Staircase—a steep, rocky climb leading to the highest point on the official West Highland Way. From the top, the trail descended towards Kinlochleven, with expansive views across the surrounding mountains.
Kinlochleven provided an ideal place to stop, rest and refuel. The village has several restaurants and shops, making it one of the most useful resupply points along the route.
But the day was not finished. After leaving Kinlochleven, the group climbed once more, crossing another mountain ridge before finding a wild camping spot beside a small river at Dorie Ban.
That night, the sky was completely clear. Far from the lights of towns and roads, the stars appeared bright, sharp and almost endless.
Sitting beside the river beneath the mountains, the group felt the deeper meaning of travelling with everything carried on their backs. A heavy pack creates hardship, but it also creates freedom: the freedom to continue beyond the villages, sleep among the mountains and experience the Highlands at their wildest and most peaceful.
For Morton and Fei, this was the night that captured the soul of the journey.
Days 6–7: Glen Nevis and Ben Nevis
West Highland Way distance: approximately 12 km
The final section of the West Highland Way passed through forest before descending towards Glen Nevis at the foot of Ben Nevis.
The word glen means a valley, while ben means a mountain or peak—two names that appear throughout the geography of Scotland.
After reaching Glen Nevis, the team rented a cabin with a kitchen. They cooked together, opened a few drinks, played games and celebrated completing the long-distance trail.
The following morning brought one final challenge: climbing Ben Nevis by the Mountain Track.
The route rose steadily over rough, rocky ground towards the 1,345-metre summit. After nearly one hundred miles of backpacking, every step demanded something more from tired legs. Reaching the highest point in the United Kingdom was therefore more than an additional summit—it was the perfect conclusion to the journey.
Day 8: Fort William and the Journey Home
The group returned to Fort William for the official finish-line photographs and a final celebration beside the water.
Over food and drinks, the eight friends looked back on everything the trail had given them: the rain, exhaustion and difficult moments, but also the laughter, wild camps, late-night conversations, mountain views and friendships strengthened along the way.
Reflections from the Trail
The West Highland Way is a well-established long-distance route with frequent opportunities to find food, water and accommodation. However, its challenge should not be underestimated.
Long distances, rough terrain and rapidly changing Highland weather can make even a straightforward section extremely demanding. Anyone planning the route should carry suitable outdoor equipment and choose daily distances that match their experience, fitness and pack weight.
Most importantly, leave room in the schedule to experience the trail rather than simply complete it.
The West Highland Way is measured as 96 miles on a map, but its real distance cannot be captured in numbers. It lives in the storms endured together, the meals shared after dark, the quiet of a riverside camp and the conversations beneath a clear Highland sky.
One hundred miles. Eight people. And a hundred stories they will carry home.